[Kyoto] Kiyama | The Michelin-starred dashi masterclass

Kiyama is one of Kyoto’s most elusive culinary gems, where the art of dashi takes center stage in a dining experience that feels both traditional and refreshingly playful. Securing a reservation is a badge of honor for any food lover, and after finally returning, I can confirm that the hype is entirely justified.

🌿 The Art of Dashi-First Fine Dining

The meal begins with pure well water, setting a clean, meditative tone before the dashi—the heart of Kiyama’s kitchen—is prepared right before your eyes. The highlight is the chawanmushi, topped with a vibrant cabbage purée that acts more like a velvety sauce than a mere garnish. It’s an immediate, exciting display of technique that proves Chef Kiyama treats his broth not just as a foundation, but as a dynamic, evolving flavor profile throughout the course.

🍱 Playful Traditions and the Grand Finale

While the techniques are deeply rooted in classic Japanese cuisine, there is a delightful sense of whimsy here. I was particularly struck by the sashimi, served with a dashi-soy sauce thickened with kuzu, and the fried dishes paired with a surprising, house-made clear Worcestershire sauce. The meal concludes with a choice of four rice dishes—ranging from a rich beef and egg bowl to a clam ramen. I opted for all four, including the jakko (dried young sardines) rice topped with a golden egg yolk, which resulted in the ultimate version of tamago kake gohan.

💬 Verdict

To experience this level of precision and hospitality at a price point in the 10,000-yen range feels like a miracle in today’s fine-dining climate. The staff strikes an exquisite balance between professional distance and genuine warmth. Highly recommended for travelers visiting Kyoto who want an authentic, unforgettable washoku experience. I will definitely be returning for dinner.

📍 Shop Info

• Name: Kiyama (木山)
• Address: 1F Verdure Gosho, 136 Kinuya-cho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
• Access: A short walk from Marutamachi Station
• Hours: Lunch/Dinner (Reservation required)
• Closed: Irregular (Check website)
• Price range: 15,000 JPY (Lunch)