Dining at Mikawa Zezankyo is less like a meal and more like a pilgrimage for any serious food lover in Tokyo. Run by the legendary master Saotome-san, often referred to as the “God of Tempura,” this spot delivers an experience that redefines the limits of fried cuisine.
🍤 A masterclass in seasonal tempura
The omakase course is a rhythmic progression that begins with impeccably fried shrimp and moves through classics like squid and conger eel. What makes Saotome-san’s work stand out are the inventive pairings, such as creamy milt (shirako) and sea urchin encased in fragrant shiso leaves. The texture is consistently ethereal—crisp, thin batter that never masks the natural flavor of the premium ingredients.
🍠 The life-changing sweet potato
You are given a choice of two seasonal vegetables, and I cannot recommend the sweet potato enough. It was nothing short of extraordinary. The interior was succulent and nectar-like, completely devoid of the dryness often found in fried tubers, while the outer crust offered a delightful, nutty aroma. Finishing the meal with a refined seafood bowl (kaisen-don) felt like the perfect conclusion. Most surprisingly, despite the volume of fried items, my stomach felt completely light—a testament to the high-quality oil and precise technique used here.
💬 Verdict
This is a bucket-list destination for anyone visiting Tokyo. It is worth every yen for the opportunity to witness a living legend at work. Since photography is restricted once the service begins, you are encouraged to truly disconnect and focus entirely on the flavors. I am already counting down the days until my next visit.
📍 Shop Info
- Name: Mikawa Zezankyo
- Address: 1-3-1 Fukuzumi, Koto-ku, Tokyo
- Access: 15-minute walk from Monzen-Nakacho Station
- Hours: Lunch 11:30-13:30 (L.O.), Dinner 17:00-20:00 (L.O.)
- Closed: Wednesdays
- Price range: Approx. ¥25,000
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